Risotto Re-Imagined: When Lombardy Meets Kyoto

Why we stopped stirring and started steaming.

A study on starch, pressure, and the art of leaving rice alone.

The Dogma of the Spoon. In a traditional trattoria in Milan or in the revered cookbooks of Italian grandmothers, you are told the secret to perfect risotto lies in the wrist. It is treated like a ritual: you must stand over the pot for twenty minutes, ladling broth in and stirring in a rhythmic figure-eight motion. This "massage," they claim, is the only way to coax starch from the grain and create the creamy texture known as all'onda.

At Philia Kitchen Lab, among the vineyards of Samos, we respect tradition but are not afraid to question its dogmas. We asked a simple, heretical question: Is constant stirring necessary, or is it simply a culinary fetish that risks ruining the texture?

The scientific truth is that while stirring releases starch through friction, it creates two problems. First, it keeps the cook bound to the stove, unable to attend to other parts of the meal. Second, the spoon often breaks the delicate grains. The result is a dish that leans toward heavy, gluey porridge rather than the elegant suspension of distinct pearls we crave.

We wanted a risotto that was creamy yet retained perfectly intact grains with a true al dente core. To achieve this, we looked beyond Italy and combined the flavours of Lombardy with the accuracy of Japan.

The Raw Material: The Monks of Vicenza. Before we even light the stove, we must speak of the grain. In the world of rice, terroir matters as much as it does in wine. For this recipe, we bypass the commercially popular Arborio, which tends to be chalky, and turn to the true aristocrat of Italian rice: Vialone Nano.

We source our rice exclusively from Riseria Delle Abbadesse. This is not simply a farm; it is a piece of living history. The rice paddies are located in Grumolo delle Abbadesse, on land that has been cultivated since the 16th century by Benedictine monks. These monks cleared the swamps and introduced rice cultivation to the Vicenza region, creating a micro-ecosystem that has remained unchanged for over 400 years.

What makes this rice extraordinary is the discipline of its production. While industrial rice farming pushes for maximum output, Riseria Delle Abbadesse restricts its yield to 5 tons per hectare. This low yield means each plant has less competition for nutrients. The roots draw more minerals from the soil, and the grains are denser, more aromatic, and structurally superior. They have high amylopectin content for creaminess, yet maintain a rigid amylose structure that prevents them from turning to mush.

To understand our choice, we must look at the 'Big Five' of Italian rice: Arborio, Baldo, Carnaroli, Maratelli, and Vialone Nano. While all contain high levels of amylopectin for creaminess, they behave differently. Arborio, the most famous export, is our least favourite; it tends to be chalky and prone to breaking. Carnaroli is often called the 'King' because its high amylose content makes it resistant to overcooking and forgives small mistakes. For this pressure-steam technique, we chose Vialone Nano. As a smaller, semifine-grain variety, it cooks faster than Carnaroli and absorbs spices and broth deeply into its core, not just the surface. It is less forgiving, but more rewarding.

The Chemistry of Cooking: Friction vs. Steam. The traditional Italian method relies on evaporation in an open pot. The cook adds liquid, stirs, and waits for it to evaporate before adding more. This is inefficient and uneven. The Philia Kitchen Lab method uses absorption and pressure.

We drew inspiration from the Japanese technique of cooking sushi rice. In Japan, rice is never stirred. It is washed, soaked, and then cooked under a heavy lid that traps steam. This creates a pressurised environment in which heat penetrates the grain from the core outward, uniformly gelatinising the starch.

We adopted this principle but adapted it for risotto:

1. Temperature Control: We keep our broth at 80°C. Starch gelatinisation begins between 70°C and 80°C. Adding boiling broth (100°C) shocks the grain's exterior, causing it to flake before the centre is cooked. Adding cold broth stops the cooking process. Precision is key.

2. The Sealed Chamber: After the initial sauté, we add almost all the liquid at once. Then we cover the pot with a heavy lid and add a weight on top to trap the steam. The pressure forces the broth deep into the Vialone Nano's structure. The starch is released naturally, not by a spoon, but by the gentle, persistent force of heat and moisture.

Samos white wine pairing with creamy crustacean risotto dish

Zero Waste Philosophy: The Crustacean Oil In the Philia Kitchen Lab, ingredients are precious. We follow a strict "Zero Waste" philosophy, especially with premium seafood like shrimp or crayfish. Usually, the shells are discarded after peeling. This is a tragedy, as the shells contain the highest concentration of flavour compounds and astaxanthin, the pigment that gives them their red colour.

For this recipe, we create a Crustacean Oil that serves as the soul of the dish:

1. Extraction: First, we boil the shells to create the base broth.

2. Roasting: We strain the shells and roast them on a grill or in the oven until dry and brittle. This triggers the Maillard reaction, unlocking deep, toasted, nutty aromas that boiling alone cannot achieve.

3.  Infusion: Finally, we submerge these roasted shells in Extra Virgin Olive Oil and let them steep for several days. The oil captures the fat-soluble aroma molecules that water couldn't reach, turning a bright, translucent orange. This oil is not simply a garnish; it is the essence of the ocean, distilled.

The Recipe: Crustacean Risotto (Lid & Pressure Method)

A fusion recipe focusing on texture, umami, and the purity of the grain.

Ingredients (For 2 Persons)

• The Grain: 120g Rice (Vialone Nano from Riseria Delle Abbadesse)

• The Liquid: 300ml Crustacean Broth (Bisque), kept at 80°C.

• The Fat: 20ml Crustacean Oil (Homemade) & 10ml Extra Virgin Olive Oil

• The Base: 1 Fresh Spring Onion (finely diced), 1 Carrot (finely diced)

• The Acid/Kick: 3g Mustard Powder & a splash of White Wine Vinegar

• The Finish: 30g Parmesan Cheese (grated 24-month aged)

• Garnish: Fresh Rocket leaves & Dill

Instructions

Step 1: The Soffritto & The Kick. In a heavy-bottomed pot, heat the olive oil over medium flame. Add the finely diced onion and carrot. Sauté gently; do not brown them. We want them to sweat and become translucent. Add the mustard powder. This might seem unusual, but mustard acts as an emulsifier, adding a subtle, piquant note that cuts through the depth of the starch and seafood, cleansing the palate.

Step 2: Tostatura (Toasting) Increase the heat slightly and add the Vialone Nano rice. Stir for 1-2 minutes. This is the "Tostatura" step. Look for a visual cue: the grains should become translucent at the edges while the white "pearl" in the centre remains visible. You should smell a faint nutty aroma, like toasted popcorn. Deglaze with vinegar. Let the acid hit the hot pan and evaporate completely. This acidity is the counterpoint to the creamy finish.

Step 3: The Japanese Lid Technique Pour in 250ml of your 80°C Crustacean broth (reserve 50ml for the final adjustment). Immediately cover the pot with a heavy lid. If your lid is light, place a weight on top to create a seal. Reduce the heat to a minimum. Set a timer for 10 minutes. Do not touch the pot. Walk away. Pour yourself a glass of wine. Trust the physics. Inside, the steam gently hydrates the rice, keeping the grains whole.

Step 4: The Check. When the timer buzzes, remove the lid. The rice will have absorbed almost all the liquid. The surface will show small holes where steam escaped, a good sign. Taste a grain. It should be cooked but have a firm "bite" in the centre. Add the remaining 50ml of broth gently, stirring once to incorporate and loosen the texture.

Step 5: Mantecatura (The Emulsification). Remove the pot from the heat. If you emulsify over the fire, the fats will separate. Add the parmesan cheese, fresh dill, and the Crustacean Oil. Cover the pot again and let it rest for 5 minutes. This resting period allows the temperature to drop slightly, stabilising the starches. Finally, remove the lid and stir vigorously. This agitation emulsifies the oil, cheese, and dissolved starch into a glossy, waving cream (the all'onda effect) without mashing the rice. What you have before you is not only a meal. It is the result of questioning habits. It is the Benedictine history of Vicenza meeting the disciplined technique of Kyoto, brought together in the Samos Kitchen Lab. It is Risotto, evolved.