Land & Sea: Black Truffle, John Dory, and the Zero-Zero Philia Barrique Challenge at Kitchen Lab Samos

Balance and Perfection. That is the task I have always pursued, whether in the kitchens of Paris or now, among the vineyards of Samos.

The Land & Sea dish –

John Dory, Sparassis,

Tuber Melanosporum –

was not conceived

in a regular restaurant kitchen. It was created in the traditional settlement

of Ano Vathy,

in the very space where

my family once stored the barrels of wine and preserved

our food—the beating heart

of Samos's survival.

This space is now the

Philia Kitchen Lab.

A place where memory

meets technique, and where the philosophy is deeply personal.

My  Kitchen Lab is open exclusively for highly curated, private sessions with small groups of 4 to 6 guests. Here, we conduct all our wine tastings, discuss winemaking progress, and refine future menus.

The Dish

It was designed as a challenge by a group of international tastemakers who explore culture through gastronomy. The goal of the event was to demonstrate how the purity of the sea (John Dory) can collide with and harmonise with the intensity of the earth (Truffle), using Philia Barrique as the catalyst. Such experiments are the core of our approach.

The Pure Signature of the Aegean (John Dory)

The John Dory is the pure signature of the North Aegean Sea, weighing 1.5 kg, the ideal size for full flesh development, caught in December, the period it feeds predominantly on abundant

calamari, giving its flesh that clean, delicate flavour. In spring or summer, its diet includes sardines/anchovies, which can impart fish oil notes. Our local, experienced fishermen apply a system of surgical precision when fishing, respecting the sea and the seasons.

The Bold Composition (Sparassis & Tuber Melanosporum)

The composition demands strength. We selected the intensity of Black Winter Truffle (Tuber Melanosporum) and the nutty flavour of Sparassis mushroom. This wintry, earthy base challenges the subtle sweetness of the John Dory. To bridge these opposing forces, I choose to add the Ice Plant (Mesembryanthemum Crystallinum), whose salty, crunchy, lemon-like freshness acts as the link between the elements.

The Wine Pairing (Philia Barrique Zero-Zero)

The Philia Barrique (Zero-Zero Muscat) is the wine that intervenes without destroying. The crisp, clean acidity of the Muscat acts as a palate "cleanser," cutting through the truffle's intensity. The elegant extraction and barrel ageing—with no trace of wood flavour on the palate—provide the depth necessary for the earthy notes.

The ultimate takeaway from the Kitchen Lab Challenge is this: The skilled handling and precise cooking of ingredients can harmoniously unite even the most seemingly heterogeneous flavours. Yet, this union requires an honest catalyst. When wine is truly natural and non-interventionist, it doesn't just complement; it becomes the unseen element—the perfect moderator—that allows the inherent nature of both the land and the sea to meet without compromise.