SAMOS: GEOLOGICAL DESTINY

THE POLITICS OF THE VINE

 

An overview of the origins of winemaking on Samos.

 

Genesis – From Parthenia to the Heights

The history of Samian wine begins with its soil. Before the island received its current name, it had many ancient names that reflected

its potential. Samos had more names and aliases than any other island in antiquity. It was called "Parthenia" (Virgin) for its sacred land and later "Melamphyllos" (Black-leafed) for its dense vegetation and fertile soil. Other names included Dryousa (Full of Oaks),

Kyparissia (Full of Cypresses), Pityousa (Full of Pines), Fyllas (Leafy), and Anthemis (The Blooming Isle),

Stefani (Wreath) referred to the island’s shape or its crown-like mountains, while Imbrasia derived from the river Imbrasos,

Hera’s sacred stream.

The enduring name "Samos" influenced the island’s winemaking legacy. Derived, perhaps, from the Phoenician word "sama,"

meaning "height," it reflects the island’s mountainous terrain. Samos is not easily cultivated; its slopes require effort to tame. Ancient Samians recognised that the best grapes thrived at higher elevations, naming their second-highest mountain "Ampelos" (Vine) and constructing dry-stone terraces, which fostered a tradition of collaboration.

According to legend, Dionysus gifted the vine to the Samians in return for their alliance against the Amazons. Despite this divine origin, Samian tradition emphasises caution and humility, as illustrated by the story of Agkaios, the first king and winemaker, who died before tasting his wine. This tale gave rise to the proverb: "There's many a slip 'twixt the cup and the lip," underscoring that nothing in viticulture is guaranteed.

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From Farmhouse to Castle

In the Classical era, after Samos joined the Athenian Alliance in 440 BC, its wine and olive oil became international exports,

transported across the Mediterranean on swift vessels called "Samaines." During Roman times, the island was initially recognised

for its ceramics, but Roman demand for sweet wine (passum) established the tradition of sun-dried wines.

The most significant transformation was social. Increased piracy forced residents to leave isolated farmhouses and coastal areas,

seeking safety on the steep slopes of Mount Kerkis and Ampelos. This move, driven by necessity, led them to the island’s ideal terroir.

At the same time, society evolved: homes were built together, forming the first "Castles" (Kastra) with shared walls.

A sense of community replaced the solitary farmhouse, and individual production became a collective endeavour.

 

Free Farmer, and the Silence

​During the Byzantine era, Samos developed a social structure distinct from the feudal West. Terrace farmers were free rather than serfs. The "Farmer's Law" (Nomos Georgikos) established the "Village" (Chorion) as the centre of production, while "Misakas" (sharecropping) introduced the first cooperative arrangements between landowners and farmers.

At this time, wine took on a sacred role. While science later showed that fermentation is caused by microorganisms, for people in Byzantine Samos, it remained a mystery. Wine was used in Holy Communion, and the Church helped preserve grape varieties in the monasteries. Despite this organisation, political turmoil led to the island's abandonment in 1475. The Samians became refugees, and the land lay silent for almost a hundred years.

 

The Seal of the Four

The Great Return (1562): Samos became a melting pot when Kilic Ali Pasha repopulated the island, granting it special privileges

and attracting settlers from across Greece. This diversity fostered an open society. Newcomers introduced their own winemaking techniques, which blended with local practices, while large monasteries served as model farms and organised agricultural production.

Political Organisation: The "Divided Seal" Samos adopted a unique democratic structure, dividing the island into four districts:

Vathy, Chora, Karlovasi, and Marathokampos. The primary symbol of authority, the Seal of the Commons, was split into four parts.

All four were required for any decision, making unity essential.

The West Bows: France and the Vatican. In the 18th and 19th centuries, the Small-berried White Muscat from Samos gained international recognition, establishing the island as a commercial hub.

• The French Connection: French merchants settled in Samos and established consulates. The port of Vathy became a centre

for shipping wine to Marseille and Bordeaux. French winemakers valued Samian must to enhance their own wines, while sweet Muscat was served in Paris as Vin de Samos.

• The Blessing of the Vatican: The Catholic Church bestowed its highest honour by permitting Samian wine to be used

in Holy Communion (as Certificado wine), recognising its purity and longevity. Consequently, Samian wine was distributed wherever there was a Catholic mission.

The Hegemony (1834-1912) and the Bourgeoisie. During its period as an Autonomous Hegemony, Samos experienced a "Golden Age." A prosperous merchant class emerged, constructing grand homes, tanneries, and tobacco factories. Wine drove this economy, sustained by the dedication of terrace farmers.

The Shadow of Phylloxera. In the late 1800s, disaster struck. Phylloxera arrived in 1892, destroying vineyards. This led to economic collapse and the exploitation of producers, setting the stage for social unrest.

 

Cooperation and the Science of Cooling

When Samos joined Greece in 1912, it was celebrated as a national victory but marked a social setback. The central Greek government imposed Western standards and dismantled communal systems. As a result, independent grape growers became dependent workers, exposed to merchants and debt. This suffocation led to the Uprising of 1934 and the founding of the Mandatory Union of Winemaking Cooperatives of Samos (EOSS) for all growers. The people of Samos had to reinvent cooperation to stay free. In the years that

followed, Samian wine became popular abroad, but production methods stayed traditional. Samos avoided using commercial yeasts

and chemical fining, opting for natural methods. However, making dry wines was difficult because the hot climate and the lack of cooling often led to oxidation. In knowledge, bringing in Greek scientists. The introduction of cooling and controlled fermentations

was the breakthrough. Heavy, oxidised wine gave way to bright, pristine aromas, allowing tradition to express itself in a modern way.

 

Today

The 21st Century: The End of Compulsory Cooperation. Today, we face another turning point. The European Court ended the requirement for mandatory Cooperative membership, removing the legal monopoly. This shift ended protectionism and ushered in an era

of creative freedom. New and independent projects are now driven by vision rather than regulation.

Cooperation is a choice, and in this new environment, our philosophy can flourish.

 

Samian wine began with myth, developed out of necessity, was preserved by faith, and thrived through cooperation.

Today, we are closing one chapter and opening another.

We are fortunate to have scientific knowledge to protect our wine and the wisdom of history to sustain its spirit.

Samos does not need to prove its greatness or boast of its value. Its worth is established in its history and landscape. As caretakers of this land, we have the responsibility to continue its story with honesty, knowledge, and respect for those who came before us.