Milan Confidential: A Night at Excelsior Hotel Gallia amongst Michelin Chefs and Samos Antiques

Milan shows two sides. Tourists see the fashion, the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele, and the busy streets. But the real Milan is something you taste. This city hides its luxury behind closed doors and turns food into art.

When you cross the imposing threshold of the Excelsior Hotel Gallia, you feel the legacy of history. Built in 1932, this iconic architectural jewel of the Belle Époque was designed to be the "Gateway to Milan" for the aristocracy arriving at the Central Station. However, we did not come for the architecture. We came for the Gastronomy. As a guest of "Io Bevo Così"—one of the most influential events for natural and artisanal wine—my role was dual and demanding: Chef in the kitchen, Winemaker in the glass.

Cooking with the Heirs of Da Vittorio

Working in a five-star hotel kitchen is always a challenge. At the Gallia, it means stepping into the home of the Cerea family, known for their famous 3-Michelin-star Da Vittorio.

There, the resident chefs, brothers Vincenzo and Antonio Lebano, welcomed me. They are young and extremely talented, leading Milan’s fine dining scene. Our work together felt less like a job and more like a true alliance.

The wine team’s vision was key to our partnership. Head Sommelier Valentina Bertini led the way by adding all my wines to the restaurant’s list, helping bring natural wines to the luxury market. Now, her successor, Paolo Porfidio, continues to support us, showing that true quality lasts beyond trends.

For the guests of "Io Bevo Così," we created a menu that celebrated pure flavour. We wanted to showcase the best ingredients while respecting food ethics. The Excelsior staff worked together smoothly and patiently. In these kitchens, there is no shouting, just a steady rhythm. We made dishes that were vibrant and flavorful, blending Italian finesse with my love for earthy tastes. This dinner showed that fine dining can be both luxurious and truly natural.

Samos 1958 & Cigars

When service ends and the chef’s apron comes off, that is when the winemaker’s time begins. The stress of the kitchen faded as I relaxed at Terrazza Gallia, the hotel’s famous rooftop bar with its stunning view.

Here, my role changed. I was not cooking, but sharing history through wine. I poured for our guests, who included journalists, food critics, and connoisseurs. Into their glasses went not just wine, but a taste of time. I opened bottles from my own cellar: Samos 1958 and my rare Solera.

• The Samos 1958, with its deep amber color, was proof of how Muscat wine can last for decades.

• The Solera, with its rich and complex flavors, matched the mood of the evening perfectly.

We finished the night with cigars. The smoke, the sweet aged Muscat, the cool Milan air, and the company of fellow chefs who had just shared the kitchen with me made it special. This is the kind of late happy hour every professional hopes for.

Milan - Samos: A Bridge of Quality

As I looked at Milan’s lights from the Gallia rooftop, I thought about the contrasts. There is the city of fashion, design, and the arts, and then there are the steep, rocky vineyards of Samos. Still, both places share a drive for perfection and beauty.

At Excelsior Hotel Gallia, history from 1932 meets today’s fine dining. At Philia Winery, Samos’s old wine traditions blend with modern natural winemaking. By being there as both cook and winemaker, I wanted to show that Samos wine is more than a local product. It is a global treasure, able to match the best dishes in the world’s top hotels and please even the most demanding tastes.

Arrivederci Milano

When I left Milan, I did not bring home shopping bags from Via Montenapoleone. Instead, I carried memories of working with the Lebano brothers and the sight of people closing their eyes to enjoy a sip of our Samos wines.

Gastronomy is a journey. Whether we are in a chef’s jacket or holding a wine glass, we are travellers sharing the spirit of our homeland. From Samos to Milan, with love and a little old wine

Chef & Winemaker Vassilis Alexiou presenting the philosophy behind Philia Winery's natural wines and