Eumelia & The Art of Curing: A Tribute to the Black Pig of LakoniaMore than just a Hotel
- Vassilis Alexiou
- Dec 12, 2017
- 2 min read
Updated: Jan 16
n the heart of Lakonia, between the Taygetus and Parnon mountains, there is a place where moments stretch endlessly down. Eumelia Organic Agrotourism Farm is more than just a place to stay. It is a living ecosystem.
Frangiskos Karelas and Marilena, the founders, did more than build guesthouses. They created a way of life focused on regenerative farming. At Eumelia, olive trees, vineyards, gardens, and animals all thrive together. Guests are invited to join in, getting their hands dirty by planting and harvesting. On my visit, though, I had a different, more basic task.

The Weight of Life
Deciding to sacrifice three Black Pigs from the farm was a serious choice. The Greek Black Pig is an old breed, known for being smart and living freely in nature.
As a chef, I always feel a deep responsibility when I prepare meat. Taking a life for food means you must use every part and waste nothing. Nose-to-tail eating is not just a trend; it is a duty to the world. The animal’s sacrifice should become part of our memory, our meals, and our culture.
Curing from Scratch: The Art of Natural Preservation
The challenge was huge: we had to process the meat from start to finish without any industrial tools or artificial refrigeration. We relied only on nature.
Here, my craftsmanship as a winemaker and a cook comes together. Wine ferments and matures with wild yeasts, and charcuterie is made with salt, smoke, and air. We made cured ham, bacon, rustic sausages, and smoked filet mignon. This process takes full dedication. The salting must be exact to remove moisture, and the smoking should be gentle so the fat’s sweetness remains.
Maturing in the Elements: No Refrigeration
The boldest step was letting the meat mature. Instead of using a fridge, we left the cuts to age in Lakonia’s natural air and changing temperatures.
Some pieces took three months to be ready.
The large hams stayed there for more than a year.
This process is all about trust. You trust that the air, good ingredients, and the right methods will avoid spoilage and help the meat age well. It’s just like when I let my wines, Augustus or Vulcanus, mature in barrels. Time doesn’t ruin things; it makes them better.

The Taste of Ethos
The results proved the sacrifice was worth it. The Black Pig’s fat, from its free-range life, was full of omega-3s and melted like butter. The flavour was deep and earthy, with hints of acorn and wild herbs—the true taste of the land where the animal lived.
At Eumelia, Frangiskos and Marilena have achieved something significant: They show us that food doesn’t come from a store shelf. It comes from the earth and deserves our respect. knowledge of natural curing, but also the affirmation of my own philosophy. Whether it is a glass of Natural Wine in Samos or a slice of smoked ham in Lakonia, the essence is one: Minimal Intervention, Maximum Respect.
If you ever visit that area, look for them. And if you come to my table in Samos and I serve you something that took months to mature, you’ll know there’s a story of patience and respect for nature behind every bite.
















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