Philia Winery: Foundations of Clay, Concrete, and Wood – The Art of Equipment

Every great recipe starts before any cooking begins. It starts with preparation. When I moved from the busy Parisian food scene to the sunny vineyards of Samos, my goal stayed the same: to serve honest flavour.

This project began from a desire to explore and create. That’s why our legal name is WanderbySamos, which you might see in the details of our early work. Still, the true spirit of our winery is captured in the name Philia.

Within the historic premises granted to us by the UWC Samos (United Winemaking Agricultural Cooperative of Samos), we established our laboratory. When the equipment arrived, I didn't just feel like a winemaker; I felt like a chef unboxing the finest Japanese knives for his kitchen. But why did we specifically choose Tava, Nomblot, and Stockinger? The answer lies in how they handle the "king" of juices: the free-run juice.

Respecting the Free-Run Juice (Pro-rogos)

At Philia Winery, we believe free-run juice, which flows naturally from the grape before any pressure is used, is the purest form of the fruit. It is delicate, aromatic, and fragile. To care for it, we needed vessels that act like a cocoon, protecting it without smothering it.

Tava Amphoras: The Alchemy of Maceration

The decision to use Tava ceramic amphoras was decisive for our Maceration (Orange) wines. Samos Muscat is a variety with an explosive aromatic character, and when we macerate (leave the juice in contact with the skins), the tannins can become aggressive. This is where the clay performs its miracle.

• Why Amphora? Clay is porous. It allows the wine to "brWhy use amphora? Clay is porous, so it lets the wine breathe through micro-oxygenation more than concrete does, but it does not add flavors like wood. Oxygen passing through the walls "polishes" the Muscat tannins. It turns aggression into a velvety texture. The amphora respects the minerality of the schist and volcanic soils, highlighting the salinity of the terroir, whilst simultaneously "slow-cooking" the wine's structure, making it round and earthy.

 Nomblot Concrete: The Thermal Shield

For our tanks, we chose Nomblot concrete. When we put the delicate free-run juice in concrete, something special happens, thanks to physics. Concrete is very slow to change temperature. This means fermentation happens slowly and steadily, without the "shocks" that stress yeasts.

• Movement: The tank’s shape and material create small currents inside that keep the fine lees floating (Brownian motion). This gives the free-run juice more body and a smooth texture, while keeping it fresh. It’s like simmering a consommé to keep all the flavour and clarity.

Stockinger Barrels: The Chef's "Salt"

Finally, we use Austrian Stockinger barrels. Many people ask, "Why not French oak?" As a winemaker and cook, I see the barrel as similar to salt. Too much can ruin the wine, but just enough makes it better. Stockinger barrels are known for lacking a strong wood or vanilla aroma. They give structure and support to the free-run juice, letting the wine mature and gain complexity while still respecting the fruit. They quietly support the wine, allowing the unique character of the grape to stand out.

 The Great Wait

With support from friends and partners, everything is ready. The Tava, Nomblot, and Stockinger are filled and quietly working on our seven new wines. From Paris to Samos, and from vine to glass, our philosophy stays the same: respect the raw material, use minimal intervention, and choose the right tools to show the true character of the place.